The Russian star is above the Alpes

26.09.1995

I spoke with Valera in late September'95 when he was back from France.

V.B. Good. I did about all I wanted to do: East face of Grande Capucin - the combination of routes: start on direct route and the end by Bonatti. It is ED. I spended 2,5 days.

A long time I dreamed about Mt. Petit Dru. This is one of the most beautifull and interesting peaks I saw anywhere. I got first solo climbing on West face on American diretissima route - ED3. It took me 7 days.

I think this route was very import ant for my personal experience. There were difficult points I could test myself. This is rocky route and its main part consists of "leaving" stones, you can never know if the stone OK or no and many carnises. Immensely expressions! But comparing Petit Dru with another routes I can say that in Ak-Su routes are longer 1,5 fold and technically more difficult.

Last days I did Grand Pilier d'Angle on the Dufour/Frehel route TD+. This is mixed (rocks+ice). The wall took me 4 hours up to the rib.

L.D. Did you meet somebody's point of your climbs? Say, well known France mountaineers?

V.B.I met Lynn Hill and Conrad Anker in Cham exhebition. I was introduces to them by the "Alpindustria" company. Lynn and Conrad were in Ak-Su this summer and they had really possibility to remark routes I did there. Unfortunatelly they had no time to do some interesting and very difficult routes I did as training climbing. But I hope everithing is forehead. I met in Chamonix F. Marsigny as well. We have an idea of common ascent. But it is hard to say what would really be.

Comments.

Before the decision to climb solo was made, Valera got about 50 routes of TD,TD+. He began climbing in the age 15. That time he did not know yet what would be his future - alpinism or sport climbing. He took a part in the training season of the team was going to Hymalay. The best alpinists of ex-Sovjet Union were chosen in the team. At that time he already got seven 7-thousand peaks.

His first solo climbing Valera did in May 1993 in the Ala-Archa region where he had been before several times, on Mt. Baichechekey - the ice couloir TD rate.

Then Korea peak - north face: the Barber's route TD+. He liked this practice and next year intended climbing solo very seriously. The region Ak-Su was chosen. This is one of the most difficult rocky places in the world. Mt. Admiraltejets by the pillar - ED - so-called the Bashkirov's pillar. 7 days. Valera had been there before too and knew what kind of route he was going to. After that was the ascent to the 5th pillar on the Korona (Crown) peak - the west rib.

L.D. Valera, why do you do the ascents abroad? Are the walls in Alps more interesting or there is another reason?

V.B. I had to present myself as an experienced alpinist who wants to go solo and to have comparision with the people like me. I'd like to know achivements of other mountaineers so I have to prove my results by doing walls wich are some kind of a high class brand for them. Naturally it was very interesting for me to compare our routes and "theirs".

L.D. Where have you been in March? I know that you were somewhere in France?

V.B. You know, it was my first time in France Alps. Finally I could see these mountains by myself not on the front page of journals.

My routes: the north face of Grandes Jorasses - The Linceul ice route TD+ - 6 hours. Then Mont Blanc du Tacul on the Modica/Noury route, TD+ - 3.5 hours. There was 550 m of 90 grad rocks.

L.D. Valera, I know that you had very good contacts with Jean Claude Marmier - the president of G.H.M. club.

V.B. Yes I'm the member of this elite mountain club G.H.M. (Groupe de Haute Montagne) where the famous alpinists of the world are the members. Jean Claude accepted me after my solo climb to Petit Dru. Jean Claud helped me to contact with Ludger Simond and Simond company became my first sponsor. He introduced me to Jean Cristophe Lafaille - the number 1 star in the Alps. We were speaking about possibilities of united ascent in Ak-Su next winter. I met Jerome Rochelle and liked him very much.

Frankly, I was surprised and glad to have the support of Jean Claud. He helped me a lot and I appriciate him very much.

Comments.

"I do not like being like everybody". Way of life in alpinism as a part of his life. Before deared solo climbing "I only thought about it within 2 years". Valera said that the decision of solo life could not made at once. But if you already have this magic feeling and a wish it would be that it never came true and you would never do any solo ascents. Valera starts his way and it looks like change of all the nature of him. The his way and philosophy of his life has been changing. He was not faithfull man but now he thinks that Somebody from up above is with him on the wall and he can talk with Him, feels His existance. This is very private matter. Perharps, this is the result of being along a long time, along with the nature.

V.B. I don't feel like discussing my plans. But I would like to go to Yosemite and for the beginning and training go by the Nose route of El Capitan, then several other routes in solo or ...:

Now I'm looking for the financial support to go on. As for plans let's talk about it later.

Comments.

His favourite book is "Jonathan Livingston Seagull" of Richard Bach.
"Find what it is you want most in the world to do - and then do it".

Liana Darenskaya
September, 1995.