BABANOV Valery. Resume

16.04.2007

valeri@babanov.com

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Born 10.11.1964 in Omsk city, Russia.

Rock climbing and mountaineering experience since 1980. Have done more then 600 ascents. More then 300 from them - high grade of difficulty both as member of team and in rope, in summer and in winter time. 8 times was on the top of seven thousand meters peaks (in ex-Soviet Union). Two ascents were done in high speed style "from base camp to base camp" (Korzhenevskoy peak-7108m and Lenin peak - 7134 m) per one day. Climbed about 45 long routes of high grade in Russia and abroad (Alps, Yosemite, Alaska, Himalayas) in the summer and winter season in solo style.

Since 1995 the member of elite French club - "GHM" - Group de Haute Montagnes.

In 2002 graduated the ENSA - the French guide school in Chamonix. Nowadays he is the only teacher from Russia who has International diploma UIAGM of professional Guide.

• 1993 - solo ascent to Mt. Free Korea. North face. "Barber" route. Tien-Shan
• 1994 - solo ascent to Mt. Admiralteys. Bashkirov route. Pamir-Alay
• 1995 - solo ascent to Mt. Petit Dru. West face. "American directissima" route. French Alps
• 1996 - solo ascent to Mt. El Capitan "Zodiac" route. California. North America
• 1996 - solo ascent to Mt. Washington Column "The Prow" route. California. North America
• 1997 - Mt. Lhotse ascent (8 516m). Himalaya
• 1998 - Mt. Petit Dru. West face. New route "Lena". Winter. With a partner. French Alps
• 1999 - solo ascent to Grande Jorasess North face. New route. French Alps
• 1999 - solo-ascent Mt.Barille. New route. Alaska.
• 2000 - solo-ascent Mt.Kangtega (6 799 m) North face. New route. Himalaya
• 2001 - First ascent peak Meru (6310m). SOLO. Himalaya.
• 2003 - First ascent Mt.Nuptse East (7804m) Sout East pillar. With a partner. Himalaya.
• 2005 - Mt. Mc Kinley (6200m) SW face. New route. With a partner, in alpine style. Alaska.
• 2006 - solo-ascent Mt.Chomo Lonzo North (7200m). West face. New route. In alpine style. Himalaya.
• 2007 - Mt. Jannu (7710m). West pillar. New route. With a partner, in alpine style. Himalaya.
• 2008 - Mt. Dhaulagiri (8167m). NE ridge. With a partner, in alpine style. Himalaya.
• 2008 - Broad Peak (8047m). Central pillar of West face. New route. With a partner, in alpine style. Karakoram.
• 2008 - Mt. Gasherbrum I (8067m). South-West face. New route. With a partner, in alpine style. Karakoram.
• 2009 - Mt. Annapurna I (8091m). West face. New route attempt. With a partner, in alpine style. Himalaya.

Had a nomination to the "Golden Ice axe" for ascents of the 1999, 2000, 2001, 2003 years in France.

In January 2002 won the International prize - "Golden Ice axe" in France for First climb peak Meru (6 310m) in solo style, Himalaya.

In may 2002 "Silver Genziana" was given to Babanov for the achievements in mountaineering., Italy, Trento international film festival. After First climb peak Meru (6 310m) in solo style, Himalaya.

In January 2003 has been the member of board "Golden Ice axe". The event has taken place in Paris, France.

In February 2004 was awarded the International prize - "Golden Ice axe" in France for First ascent Mt.Nuptse East (7804m). Himalaya

In November 2004 was awarded the International prize - "Explorer" in Poland, for the Best and Hard achivements in the Mountains around the world.

In February 2005 has been the member of board "Golden Ice axe". The event has taken place in Grenoble, France.

In November 2006 has been the member of board the first "Golden Ice axe of Asia". The event has taken place in Seule, Korea.

In February 2008 was awarded the International prize - "Golden Piton" in North America for First ascent new route in Alpine style Mt.Jannu (7710m). Himalaya

In March 2008 was awarded the International prize - "Golden Grolla" in Italy for First ascent new route in Alpine style Mt.Jannu (7710m). Himalaya

In November 2008 was awarded the International prize - "Crystal Vase" in Prague. Czechia.

In November 2009 was invited like a guest with slide show program to 34rd Mountain Film Festival in Banff. Canada.

One of few top climbers in the world, who took "Golden Ice axe" award twice.

The whole list of ascents

Briefings:

From April 2001 to December 2007 spent more then 10 briefings in Moscow. There were a lot of TV channels of Russia, journalists from newspapers and magazines.

Slide show:

• 1. December18th 2000. Italy. Padovo. More then 450 visitors.
• 2 March 16th 2001. Italy. Bergamo. More then 450 visitors.
• 3 November 9th 2001. Russia. Omsk city. More then 150 visitors.
• 4 November 23rd 2001. Russia. Omsk city. More then 150 visitors.
• 5 5 February18th 2002. Italy. Lecco. Omsk city. More then 400 visitors.
• 6 February 19th 2002. Switzerland. Lugano. More then 300 visitors.
• 7 September 8th 2003 Swiss. Stockholm. More then 500 visitors
• 8 February 22nd 2007 Italy. Carpenedolo. About 100 visitors
• 9 March 03rd 2007 Switzerland. Sion. More then 400 visitors
• 10 November 21st 2008 Czechia. Prague. More then 400 visitors
• 11 November 07th 2009 Canada. Banff. More then 200 visitors
• 12 June 17th 2010 Italy. Boario Terme. More then 500 visitors
• 13 August 12th 2010 Italy. Courmayur. More then 200 visitors

Publications:

Since June 1996 collaborated with the Russian and World publishers.

Printed many articles, stories, interviews in all leading Russian and world magazines.

List of publishers. Abroad:

• "Vertical" magazine (France), "Montagnes magazine" (France), "Alpirando " (France), "Equipe magazine " (France), "Liberation" (France), "Dauphine libere " (France), "La Montagne & Alpinisme ".
• "High" magazine (England), "Climber" (England).
• "Klettern"magazine (Germany), "DAV"magazine (Germany).
• "ALP"magazine (Italy), "Pareti" (Italy), "Sualto" (Italy).
• "Desnivel" (Spain), "Base Camp" (Spain),
• "Limite" (Holand).
• "Brant" magazine (Sweden).
• "Climbing" (USA), "Rock & Ice" (USA), "American Alpine Journal" (USA).
• "Rock & Snow" (Japone).
• "Gory & Alpinism" (Poland), "Gory" (Poland).
• "Jamesak" (Slovakia).

List of Russian publishers:

"Vertikalny Mir", "RISK Online"" KontrIgra", "Itogi", "Sport Express", "Sovetski Sport", "Komsomolskaya Pravda", "Megapolis Express", "Na Grani", "Adrenalin", "Gorodok", "Vokrug Sveta", "Fedor Konjuhov magazine ", "Ogonjek", "Ves Mir", "Sportivnaya Gazeta", "Nomer Luks", "Panasonic", "EX", "Yat'", "Journalst", "Allo plus", "Kompjuterra", "Russia", "Argumenty I Fakty", "Krutoj Mir", "Mobilnye Kompjutery", "Planeta Internet", "Vek", "Versty", "Vremia", "Parlamentskaya newspaper", "Vecherni Omsk", "Digital ", "Russian Life", "Catalogue BASK".

Radio channels

"Radio Russia", "Mayak".

TV channels: abroad.

French TV channels: "FRANCE-3", "FRANCE-2", "ODYSSEE", "8 Mont Blanc".

TV channels: Russian.

Russian channels: "ORT", "RTR", "TV-6 ", "NTV plus", "TVZ", "Stolitsa", "STV", "12 channel", "AKME", "RENT-TV ", "NTV", "GTRK Irtish", "TV Russia", "Vesti- Sport"