(11.11.2003) As in Schwarz's fairy tale "The Ordinary miracle", "the king still had feelings
thin and hardly definable". We have hung between dreams and a reality. The reality is needs of a
body, but a consciousness is aside all the time. There was a certain division, and the result of
it is two climbers dog-tired with foggy plans concerning the future, with a proof sensation of
the fixed universe at the top. This top is as a sign, as a seal. And it came into our hearts and
remained there as a lunar landscape with a full-scale view of Everest with a huge silvery flag
and the Southern saddle, Western Face of Lhodse, with a smooth turn of her ridge and the top on
which we hugged one another of the good achievement. Those embraces are a high level of our
relations. We feel such emotions from that it has come off and these emotions are from our
staying behind the limit.
The night ascent on the unknown top close to 8000m is a high uncertainty especially with
descending. But we decided to do that lost in high meditation when having dissolved with an
exhalation you can to not return.
It is not a simple achievement for us: it was checking of our opportunities, and first of all a
conformity of internal instructions of your spirit and the reality of their embodiment in the
real world. There is no also a speech about any victory. We have ascended the top unclimbed
before by a mutual agreement and due to the renunciation we made at a spiritual level.
Yury Koshelenko reports from Namche Bazaar:
"We are in Namche. The body is knitting gradually
with the soul. We feel strange sense. As an idea - a comparison with a billiard sphere beaten
out of the limits of a table comes. This is an interesting condition of consciousness, but it is
difficult to use fruitfully because of difficulty of the control... It is badly controlled. The
mountain has already kept away from us. It opened her embraces. The sensations from contact with
her reality are already delayed and are less powerful, the reality is fixed in the past, but
still yesterday we lived in it.
The southeast ridge is technically very completed, interesting, magnificent with beauty of its
line. It comes to an end at 6900 m with a wide crest. This crest rests against a pre-topmost
snow-ice slope and a summit tower.
For the ascending of the further part of the route we had to sacrifice something. The weight
played the first role as a brake on our way to the top, and we left sleeping bags, spongy mat,
products, and unnecessary personal things. We settled two cold camps: at 7200m and at 7450 m
(the third one was settled on descending route). Then made the push to the top with the
uncompromising decision to go up to the end, despite of a close night, a dense wind and a dense
frost and also the obvious difficulty and uncertainty with the descent. Only this renunciation
and the correct route we had chosen allowed us to summit the top for four pitches up to the
maximum point. During that moment we controlled ourselves, and partly the situation. It cost to
us of considerable efforts. I do not know at all, when we can restore them. But the mountain is
ours, i.e. - Russian. As it heats our souls. And what about you?
Yury Koshelenko, the 9th of November 2003"