Today at 6 p.m. Valeri and Yuri called from BC of Nuptse.

04.11.2003

They made it! One of the hardest route in Himalaya. We did not even think they did it. So the Nuptse East by South ridge ours! And about 18th attempts before it.

Valeri: We summated at November 2nd, 7.30 p.m. local time. Very cold, -25-30C and wind, strong wind. We started at about 7450 meters height in 8.40 a.m. We had one tent. We climb4ed in alpine style from the altitude 6 400 m. bivis were cold, we just did not have sacks, just carpet and 1,5 balloons of gas. No more. From 7 450 till summit we climbed 10 pitches - M4-M5 grade and in French grade 5a, 5b grade of rock climb. We do not have pictures from the summit that was dark in that time, it s been dark in 6 p.,m. local time. And in 0.30 a.m. we were back in ABC. Yesterday all the day we climbed back to 6 900 meters height and had a bivi there. And today at 9-9.30 a.m. we started from 6 900 ands reached BC in 7 p.m.

Yuri KOSHELENKO: The mountain is wonderful, surprising. But the part before summit 10 pitches was very hard for us. We climbed on the edge of our inner force, we did not hope we would be alive and unfrost. 3 days in alpine style without sacks. Valeri was frozen in 2 down jackets! Very cold.

Now we are in BC. Pasag cooks for us dinner. We will take off some our ropes and after that go down for home. We Ok happy and alive!

All the best for all our friends!