There are 5 separate summits in Nuptse massive, the height of main is 7855 m. Only two of them were climbed to the top - Main and West summits. Already 18 years the elegant South-east pillar is a problem for climbers from all over the world. In 1986 Jeff Low and Mark Mark Twight tried to climbed it twice in alpine style. The point they reached was at 6600 meters height. The approximate grade of difficulty of the route according Jeff Low is 5.10/A4.
In 1987, Italian rope Fabrizio Manoni and Enrico Rossi reached the same height.
Supposed route of Valeri Babanov. Photo credit: Gerard Vionnet
Jeff Low told that the route is a very nice he has ever climbed before. "It has just the combination of features I'm looking for, steep technical mixed ground and altitude".
Almost every year there are climbers who try to challenge the route, which leads to the fantastic untouched summit.
The most high point has ever reached on South-east pillar is 7500 m. The attempt of 1994 by strong French rope Michel Fauquet and Jean-Chrstophe Moulin.
The latest attempt was done this spring by international team: Stephen Koch, Marko Prezelj, Steve House. They reached the height 7250 m, in alpine style.
Photo credit: Michel Fauquet
Valeri Babanov plans to start to Nepal in the beginning September. The goal of the expedition is the ascent by the South-east pillar to the unclimbed Nuptse East summit. Team consists of him and Olga Babanova, who will connect with Valeri by radio and mail us about the progress of climber on the route. Besides there are the standard choice offered by Nepal companies: liaison officer and cook. The base camp will establish at 5 200 meters height on the cosy green lane with the grandiose view to the South face of Lhotse and all the Nuptse massive.
Valeri considers that besides the altitude problems he will have the technical difficulties on the route. The bottom part of it can be compared with the famous mixed route of maximum difficulty grade - the Cassin route on the North Face of Grandes Jorasses (Walker) with the overheight about 1300 meters. Then the rock pillar leads to the pitch with the steep overhanging snow "mushrooms" and roofs, which were the serious problem during many ascents before. The final pitches of supposed route are on the difficult mixed part (rocks, ice) at the height over 7 400 m to the summit. There will be bivouacs on the route in the special tent- hamac, which tested by Valeri many times, for example on the Kangtega climb. And all of this problems Valeri will solve in his solo style manner of climb!
Photo: Michel Fauquet
The most part of autumn attempts were stopped by hurricane winds at the height over 7 000 m. Valeri hopes that the local Gods again will help him to catch the weather "window" as on Meru peak to make the final push to the summit.
The approximate data is till November 2002 г.