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Валерий Бабанов

  Валерий Бабанов закончил Французскую школу гидов ENSA в Шамони.
  На сегодняшний день является единственным представителем из России, имеющим международный диплом Профессионального Гида UIAGM.
  С осени 2002 года входит в международную ассоциацию горных гидов.

Подробнее читайте в разделе «ГИД»...  


Предлагаемые услуги:

  • восхождения на вершины любой сложности и любой высоты;
  • организация и проведение экспедиций в Гималаи, Каракарум и другие горные районы;
  • ледолазание;
  • скалолазание;
  • горные лыжи;
  • каньонинг (спуск по водопадам).

Опыт работы гидом свыше 15 лет.


Карта сайта: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Ascents:Pik Meru, Himalaya. 2001

Meru chronicle

26.05.2000

01.06.2001

Valery Babanov is in Moscow now. The press briefing will take place on June 7th in business center on prospekt Mira. Orgonized by general sponsor - BASK company.

20.05.2001

I came to ABC at 4900m by 8:00. The whole descent was some sort of a "nightmare". The constant fighting with snow, heavy sack and "naughty" portaledge catching against everything on the way.

Hello to everybody,

Today is May,20. Morning. I am writing this letter myself which means that I came down. Yes, the things turned out this way. The weather changed drastically on May, 14, and not in our favor. That day I reached 5850m, and everything went perfectly. It seemed that half of the whole thing had been already done. Half of the whole distance was already behind. It started snowing a little in the afternoon. It was to stop at night. But: It has been snowing since than. For 5 days I was sitting in the portaledge on the wall hoping the weather would change. I made several attempts to continue the ascent, but the snowstorm made me return to the portaledge each time. May, 18, I made a difficult, but the only right decision under the circumstances: to start the descent. At 9:00 I began to make my way down slowly through the falling snow and roaring avalanches. All this is complicated by the fact that the descent comes in a slant line down. In many places it is crossed by avalanches. To bring down a great amount of the equipment is as difficult as to pull it up. A couple of times avalanches came over me. But luck was on my side during the descent. That day I didn't manage to reach ABC. I spent a night in a portaledge in several rope pitches from bergschrund. I came to ABC at 4900m by 8:00. The whole descent was some sort of a "nightmare". The constant fighting with snow, heavy sack and "naughty" portaledge catching against everything on the way. And all this was accompanied by the "music" of snow avalanches passing over you or close to you. But it's Ok, the most important thing is that everybody is alive. And the mountain? But we will return to it.

Yesterday, May, 19, in the afternoon we went down to BC in Tapovan, 4200m. The Americans are sitting here. We had a conversation with them. They also realize that their situation is bad. The weather and the chosen route are not too promising. But they still have three weeks ahead. God bless them. Mau be they will be lucky.

We are sitting with Olya in BC now. It's snowing a little. We don't have any definite plans for the next days. I have to bring down some more equipment from ABC. That's our news.

Biggest hello to everybody. What's the news from the other expeditions?

Valery, Olya.

18.05.2001

Olga Babanov reports:
I've strated my morning by digging out the tent from the snow. We are still OK, hope everything to better. Today the day is not better then yesterday, no change in the weather. We were sleepeing with the sound of snow and got up with the same sound. Maybe the luck turn back from us. All news.
Valeri and Olga

17.05.2001

The weather and ascent do not change to better. So we are sitting and wait for the weather.
Valeri and Olga

16.05.2001
It was snowing all day yesterday and all night till 4 a.m

It has been snowing since yesterday. It was snowing all day yesterday and all night till 4 a.m. Than there was a little break, during which Valery tried to go out and managed to straighten the rope. He wanted to put one more rope, but the new snowfall didn't let him do it. The snow layer is so thick that it covers rather steep rocks and blocks with 20 cm, to say nothing about more gentle places, which makes the route objectively dangerous. The only thing left is to wait. But the point is, that every day of waiting reduces the time given for the ascent, for we have a permit with the fixed dates. I started my morning with digging out my tent. We are not discouraged yet, hoping for the better.

Valery and Olya

Translation: Ludmila Korobeshko

15.05.2001
Valery is sitting in his porta-ledge at 5775m waiting for the weather to become better. He is happy that the platform is good and protects him

It has been snowing with short breaks since yesterday. The snow layer is thick enough. It's impossible to go on with the work yet. Valery is sitting in his porta-ledge at 5775m waiting for the weather to become better. He is happy that the platform is good and protects him. He doesn't lose heart. Let's hope that the weather will become better soon.

The Americans had to go down to BC. As Peter said: "We need really good weather for our Alpine style".

And it's true. They don't have a porta-ledge. They planned three nights in a small tent, and one "sitting" night. But that's impossible in such weather.

And Valery doesn't have a choice. Having worked five days it's unreasonable to go down. While there is time and hope it's better to wait.

A great request to Liana. Put the information word for word on the site: "Thank you all very much for the letters and support. We don't have the opportunity to answer each letter personally because of the satellite time limitations. Personal gratitude to Seryogina Anna from Valery Babanov".

That's all the news.
Valery and Olga.

Translation: Ludmila Korobeshko

14.05.2001
The height is 5620m. That day he climbed two ropes along the rock ridge going from left to right and reached the height of 5700m

Time: 18:45.

Yesterday (13/05/01) Valery spent a night on the rock rib, which ends the long snow-iced slope coming closely up to the "black wall" as we named it. The height is 5620m. That day he climbed two ropes along the rock ridge going from left to right and reached the height of 5700m. For the night he climbed down to the old place. The altitude is given approximately, it depends upon the pressure changes. Today morning he started moving his "garbage" along the fixed ropes.

Translated by Ludmila Korobeshko

13.05.2001
He had to use even the sky-hooks. He managed to look through his further way up. It doesn't seem too complicated, there is a gentle ridge with the blocks covered with ice and snow.

Peter and Dave came to the ABC. They brought presents for me: several boiled eggs, cookies, "Pringles" chips, and what really matters - an exotic fruit mango. During 6 o'clock radio connection Peter talked with Valery. 14/05/01 Peter and Dave started their way up about 5 a.m. At 8 a.m. they reached the ledge where Valery spent the very first night. They put up a tent and are going to spend a night there. They are planning to leave at night and cross the snow-iced slope to the right of there tent, so they will be to the right of him.

While Valery stuck to the left side. The thing is that something is constantly falling in the right side of the slope. Valery told them about it. But may be they are more quick and will pass it rapidly, though its upper part is very steep. It's midday now, additional news will be in the evening - I will send it at once. In the morning Valery was moving all his belongings to the height of 5775m. Further on his route he came across a large "sentinel" which took him 2,5 hours to leave behind.

He had to use even the sky-hooks. He managed to look through his further way up. It doesn't seem too complicated, there is a gentle ridge with the blocks covered with ice and snow. So one should be very careful and attentive. But it started snowing ant it still is. It has been snowing for 4 hours already. Hope it will clear up by the night.

Valery fixed a rope at the height of 5800m. For the night he climbed down to 5775m. He had the strength and desire to go on with the work, but the heavy snow prevented him from doing this. At the moment he is having his supper. He has some remark for "BASK" about the sympotex suit, but he will postpone it till the later meeting. The porta-ledge is good for it doesn't have the condensate. Here is all the news for now.

Valery and Olga.

Translation by Ludmila Korobeshko

12.05.2001
Valery finished late. So I give the report for the two past days. He passed all the snow-iced slope about 1000m long, the altitude difference from its start (5100m) up to today's overnight stop (5700m) is 600m. He is OK

Time 18:36. Hello to everybody. On the requests I name the exact date. In fact we had a wrong date in our computer . I didn't write yesterday. Valery finished late. So I give the report for the two past days. He passed all the snow-iced slope about 1000m long, the altitude difference from its start (5100m) up to today's overnight stop (5700m) is 600m. He is OK. I forgot to ask him about how was his porta-ledge, but I certainly will. Most probably, it is OK as long as he doesn't complain. I read him your letters over the radio. Tomorrow Valery is planning to start moving along the ledge going from left to right and leading to the main wall. He doesn't know how long it will take him, may be 2-3 days.

The Americans, who went down to restore their health, haven't reached the ABC yet. We are expecting them every minute. If they don't send the information about the weather, it will mean no changes so far. The weather is very changeable. I'm afraid even to think about it. That's all for now. Valery sends his regards.

Olya

Translation: Ludmila Korobeshko

10.05.2001
Today he has passed 250m of rather a steep snow-iced slope

Hello to everybody!

I have just talked with Valera over the evening radio connection. Today he has passed 250m of rather a steep snow-iced slope. He stopped for a night at 5500m and he fixed the ropes up to 5570m. Tomorrow he is planning to finish his work on this snow-ices slope, the total length of which is 1000m (judging by what the Americans say). The Americans themselves came to our ABC, put up their tent, but Peter had a bad headache - so he went down to the BC. Dave spent a night in the ABC and also went down today. They said they will come back in 2-3 days. They have enough time in store. The French have been to the Shivling summit today and descended to Camp II. The weather is good so far. Valery is OK. He sends his regards to everybody. I am also OK but for the fact that I have to sleep surrounded by the batteries ( nothing similar to the central heating), satellite phone and other "cool things" to keep in touch with the world outside.

Valery and Olga.

Translated by ludmila Korobeshko

08.05.2001
May 8th, 17:51. Tomorrow I plan to start the route

Hello everybody.

We are lying in the tent at 4900m in ABC. It is snowing. 2 hours ago we just came up here. Yesterday we had one more rest day in BC. Long time we spent as Americans guests. Talking, drinking tea.

We are talking about possible common plans. In a camp there are only Peter and Dave. Two their friends John and Chuck are several days skiing somewhere. The planned start Pete postponed for one more day. Probably, they want to make me as a probe stone.

French people (4 persons) start today for Shivling climbing. On the way to ABC we met one of the local holy man, he lives separately from all the world. Almost 4 years he doesn't speak anything.

He "talks" only by writing and making gestures by hand. He presented to me and Olga small pictures with Buddha image. It is a good sign.

If tomorrow the weather is good, I wont to start the ascent. From the our tent location to the beginning of route - about 40 minutes. We can see clearly 3 fixed by me 3 days ago ropes. There is no difficult on that place but anyway, it is a pleasure.

That's our life now. Snow keeps dropping on our tent.

I have a cheerful mood.

Buy.
Valery and Olga.

07.05.2001
One more from May 6th. Valery plans to start the ascent on Mya 8th.

May 6th, 19:39

Hi. Just gave got your mails and a lot of questions. We did not mail for 4 days because we were in ABC. But till tomorrow Olga will be in ABC with communications and the information will be going on non stop.

The party of Americans is going to climb a bit right of the route I drown on briefing. My route is not still changed. They have two month for ascent, but they start just after me, the next day. Yesterday they turned back from acclimatizing.

I think, they consider to climb the route for 5-6 days, but as for me, it will take minimum 10 days. The weather is unpredictable, but quit good. And now about the still-life. We remembered the names of cook and liaison officer, but it is very hard for us and unusually. The meal is good. Yesterday we have had a bath-washing day and we moved our tent to the other place because on the place where we stayed the "Great Tapovan lakes" locate. The snow melted.

I have already called to TV and to radio program. Can you please to tell me the news from other expeditions briefly?

Valery and Olga

07.05.2001
The weather surprisingly good. Tomorrow we will go up to ABC at 4.900m

May 6, 16:42

Hello everybody. On May 5th we went down to BC Тароvan from АВС. Today, May 6th I have the rest day. In May 4th I had the acclimatizing climb with a bivouac on the supposed route at 5.440m and carried there a part of equipment. The weather surprisingly good. Tomorrow we will go up to ABC at 4.900m. And I think in May 8th I will start the ascent. All the time Olga will support the radio connection with me. From ABC we can see all the route very well. It is impressed. The party of Americans starts a day after me. We are friends already. Peter kindly gave me the photo of the Meru Face. He has told that there were more then 10 attempts of climbing it. They have try now the 3rd time by themselves. They climb in alpine style.

Andrei and Vecheslav. Thanks for technique. It works perfectly. (RISK: "satellite phone and PC") No questions.

Soon the test of "BASK" equipment will be done.

That's all till now
Valery and Olga

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