21.05.2006
Valeri climbed a new route to Chomo Lonzo North.
Unfortunately he did not reach the summit. On May16, Valeri left ABC at 6 a.m. Tibetan time.
He reached an altitude of 6800 m at 9 p.m. There was not a good place for bivouac; therefore, he took a rest just sitting all night.
On the next day, Valeri left all bivouac equipment and continued climbing. He thought that he can climb up to the summit in the next 6-7 hours, but he reached the edge of the mountain only at 9 p.m. (approximately 7100 m.).
The weather is getting worse and Valeri does not have any bivouac equipment, because he left it at 6800 m.
It was not an easy decision, but he decided to go down.
The extent of the route on altitude is 1100m. It`s mostly ice and some pitches of rock and mixed climbing (M4-M4+) in upper part (6800-7100m) of the route.
Sponsors: BASK, SCARPA, GRIVEL, BEAL, JULBO, METEO FRANCE. |