We were not able to climb something serious in Alaska this season because of the constant snowfalls. There is the worst weather this year in Alaska for many years. Locals said.
We made two attempts to climb new route on South face of Mt. McKinley. First time - May 30 - we were back because we could not cross East Fork glacier torn by many crevasses. Second time. June 2nd, beginning storm pull us back again from the Face.
We climbed with Fabrizio in very light style and we hoped on the fast climb. We thought about 2-2.5 days for non-stop climbing up.
The route we chosen, more or less had more then 3 km overall in wall part. We were able to climb about 700 meters on the wall and spent about 8 hours non-stop ascent. From this time last 2-3 hours - in the snowfall.
The wall is huge. During snowfall it concentrated a lot of snow, which made a giant avalanche very fast. But we were more experienced and wisdom, we took ourselves out of the wall in those increasing horror.
Now climbing such routes in the super- light style is the top point of modern fashion in extreme mountaineering. Less and less people can be amazed by the hard expedition style on the big walls. The first place is now for the personal ability in mountains. Indeed, less players on the filed more great game, one to one - most brilliant, two to one - as well not bad.
Attempt to cross limits of personal probabilities and to touch the edge of invisible self-control limit - that's what is the main motive for people who dive into extreme-difficult ascents, who like the game process more then the final results.
There were many climbers on the glacier with us who wanted to climb something interesting on Hunter, Foraker or McKinley. But everybody suffered from the weather. Ian Parnell and John Varco spent a whole month and did not climb anything. Ian said that that was his first time he climbed nothing.
That's all for now.